At the end of the nineteenth and beginning of the twentieth centuries, art was in ferment and that applies as well to the art of architecture. Just as Kandinski experimented with bold new lines and Franz Marc invented blue horses, the architects of the time threw out the old forms, inventing a new school of architecture and decorative arts, challenging the traditional and exciting the senses.
Jugendstil – Art Nouveau with a German flavor
The Art Nouveau style, as it is known in the United States and in parts of Europe, includes the Jugenstil – Young Style – of Germany and Austria, and the Bavarian capital of Munich has a veritable treasure trove of buildings in this style. Born in the turbulent yet fertile period between the Franco-German War of 1870 and World War I, the style resorted to folklore, myth and nature for its themes.
The Art Nouveau Gallery of Schwabing
The Schwabing section of Munich lay on the outskirts of the city at that time and it became the suburb where the newly wealthy, the smart and the chic built their new mansions and apartment blocks. Buildings were suddenly clothed in bright colors, door and window treatments suddenly changed and where they were once stern and formal they now were outlined in curls and vines. Facades now became less symmetrical, and carved stone flowers sprouted on lintels and cornices. Balconies became more prevalent and they were often decorated with fanciful wrought iron work.
The best place to begin a free street art tour is on the Leopoldstrasse where the leading exponents of the style implemented their art along both sides of the street. Strolling along this and neighboring streets is the best way to visualize the birth and exploitation of the new ideals being practiced by the ambitious and adventurous young architects of the day.
Jugendstil Architecture Starts at the Gisela U-Bahn
Start the tour at the Gisela U-Bahn (subway system) stop and walk down the Martiusstrasse. Here there are three long blocks of Jugendstil. Some of the best examples are at numbers 1, 3, 5 and 7, but there are many others. It’s exciting to identify common themes and compare details. While here explore the parallel streets of Trautenwolfstrasse and Ohmstrasse.
Cross Leopoldstrasse to Franz-Josefstrasse, but do it carefully, this is a major artery. Look for number 19, a pharmacy. This outstanding structure has peacocks between its windows and also has a curved door frame. Look for leaves and vines under the balcony, a deep relief floral frieze under the eaves and speed lines. Another example, at the corner of Friedrichstrasse, is probably painted even more brightly than it was when built. Further on look for houses on Elisabethstrasse. Take the time to wander to the left down Isabellastrasse, then follow it right to Bauernstrasse.
Ann-Millerstrasse for the Wildest Architecture of Them All
A right at Bauernstrasse leads across a park to Ann-Millerstrasse. Here some of the most over-the-top buildings in the neighborhood are found. One is on the left at Romerstrasse 11 and the others at Ann-Millerstrasse 20 and 22. After all that walking, the tired tourist will be ready for a drink. Head straight ahead back to Leopoldstrasse and a seat in an open air cafe!
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