Close to Strasbourg, across the border in France, Gegenbach provides a perfect location for travelers to combine a visit to Germany’s Kinzigtal wine region with medieval buildings and – in the winter -- a lively Schwartzwalder carnival.
Early Settlement
In an area originally populated by Celts, its first settlement was Roman, followed by Germanic tribes as Rome disintegrated. By the 5th century it was largely Christianized and in the 8th century a Benedictine monastery was founded and the city grew. During the Thirty Years War (1618-48) Gegenbach was repeatedly plundered and was burned by King Louis XIV in 1689. Most of the buildings in the old town center date from the reconstruction in this period.
On one side of the Medieval center of Gegenbach rises a cultivated hillside crowned by a small chapel, while on the other side vineyards thrive.Both visitors and residents park at the edge of town, next to the Kinzig River, near an ancient building at its edge that now holds a museum of goods rafted down this riverine highway. A path leads along Benedict von Nursia Strasse along a short section of the original town wall topped by a steep-pitched roof and a covered guard’s walk. A left turn leads along Klosterstrasse, lined by 18th-century houses.
At Hauptstrasse the style abruptly changes. To the left the impressive 13th-century Kinzigturm (Kinzig Gate Tower) still controls entry to the medieval center, it’s massive portcullis still in place. On either side of the street half-timbered houses line the way to the market square, dominated by an impressive Renaissance-style Town Hall (1784). Topped by statues of Prudence and Justice, it decorative balcony supports represent Europe, Asia, Africa and America (depicted as a Native American).
Advent Calendar and Town Hall
Each year from late November through the holidays, the windows become the world’s largest Advent Calendar decorated by well-known artists. In 2008 the artist honored was Tomi Ungerer. On the west side, the gable end of the old Council Chambers shows the date 1699.
Walk toward the Haigeracher Turm (Upper Tower) and turn onto Höllengasse (Hell Alley) leads to the Fastnacht Brunnen, a magnificent contemporary fountain composed of bronze figures used in the town’s carnival celebrations. The positioning and interaction of the figures brings alive the joy and abandon of the pre-lenten celebrations.
Wander in the 17th Century
Continue, keeping right to Engelgasse (Angel Alley), district of beautifully restored 17th- century buildings. The houses in this district offer some of the finest examples of half-timbered housing in Germany. The timbering patterns differ from house to house and on some the upper floors overhang the street, stealing a bit of additional floor space.
Follow Engelgasse toward the old town walls and the Swedenturm (Sweden Tower), part of the original defenses. Next to it is an 18th-century house that once served as a dye house. Grabenstrasse runs along the outside of the walls where the moat was once located.
Mingle With Witches
The Narrenmuseum, in the Niggleturm, is the home of Shalk (the carnival Fool) and it houses an outstanding collection of hand-carved carnival masks and costumes. On the Klosterstrasse stands the late 17th-century Stadtkirche, the former church of the monastery. It was renovated in 1980 to its Romanesque period. The former monastic gristmill is nearby. The monastery is now part of Offenburg University.
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