German Cities Worth Touring - Wittenberg

Take a Day Trip to Martin Luther's Hometown

Oct 2, 2009 Josanna Simpson

Visit the birthplace of the Protestant Reformation in Wittenberg, Germany. For those wishing to follow Luther's footsteps, there are sites and legends galore.

Wittenberg, situated halfway between Berlin and Leipzig on a curve of the Elbe River, offers an authentic glimpse at antebellum Germany. It claims the distinction of being one of the few German cities that survived WWII without damage. This staunch little town has another claim on history as the home of Dr. Martin Luther.

Martin Luther Sites

Several points around the town boast a connection with Martin Luther. Here are the most prominent:

Castle Church, Schlosskirche, also known as the All Saint’s Church
St. Mary’s Church, Marienkirche, also known as the City Church
The Luther House, Lutherhaus
The Luther Oak, Luthereich
A Luther statue in the town square

The first stop should be the impressive Castle Church where the bell tower bears the inscription “A Mighty Fortress is Our God,” in German.

Luther preached in the Castle Church many times while living in Wittenberg. This was the site where he nailed his famous 95 theses. The Neo-Baroque building proudly displays its Protestant past. Down both sides of the nave runs a gallery of Protestant portraits. Dominating the side entrance to the church stand bronze replicas of the doors where Luther nailed his theses. Unfortunately fire destroyed the original wooden doors in the 1700s.

While 19th century renovation brightened the interior of the church, it effectually destroyed traces of Luther’s days. Little from his era remains except tombs. It is difficult to imagine his fiery sermons echoing off the gilded interiors of this Baroque structure.

St. Mary's Church

For an older and more authentic brush with Luther’s past, dodge into the nearby square and visit St. Mary’s church, also known as the City Church. This quiet Gothic cathedral has undergone some renovation through the years. But much of the original structure remains. In the immense silence of its vaulted ceiling and stone floor it is easier to slip into an older era and imagine the monk who railed at too much adornment in churches.

Luther’s six children were baptized in this parish church. Here Luther also preached, and here stands a Cranach alter showing the Last Supper. The artist chose to depict Luther and his contemporaries as disciples around the table. Next to the church nestles a tiny chapel where Luther may have held evening services. Both are well worth a visit.

Luther House Museum

Follow the reformer’s footsteps a little further down Castle Street and arrive at the Luther House. The large building that once served as an Augustinian dormitory later became the home of Luther and his wife. Now it hosts an extensive museum dedicated to Luther and the Reformation.

The multi-level museum demands at least a two hour visit. Here one can learn the intricacies of daily household management for Katherina von Bora or discover how Luther liked his beer brewed or peer through glass cases at rare editions of incendiary Protestant pamphlets.

Luther Legend of the Oak Tree

Although legend strays from fact it does lend piquancy to ordinary sights. At the end of Collegienstrasse grows an oak tree called the Luther Oak. The tree does not date from Luther’s time. It was planted in 1830 to replace the original oak. So why does a tree bear Luther’s name?

Legend tells that on this spot in 1520 Luther burned the papal bull. When news of his deed spread in the town, a grandmother and her granddaughter arrived on the scene. One of Luther’s students loved the young woman but the grandmother would not permit a match between the two. When the old woman witnessed what Luther had done she was incensed.

She rammed her walking stick into the ground and swore that her granddaughter would never marry a Luther supporter until the stick turned green. So during the night the young man crept out and planted an oak on the spot. By spring the young tree had sprouted leaves, forcing the grandmother to concede that a miracle had occurred. She finally consented to the match.

Local Attractions

While the famous Luther sites around Wittenberg can be seen in a day, some extra time in this part of Germany offers tourists many options.

Bike down the Elbe River or spend a leisurely afternoon shopping in Wittenberg’s cobbled streets. When night falls visit one of many specialty restaurants for a sample of local cuisine.

The Kartoffelhaus, “The Potato House,” situated on Castle Street in Wittenberg, features potatoes cooked in every conceivable form. Aside from good food, it also provides ambience by the bucketful, from the miniature cauldrons in which potatoes are served to the snug tables for two tucked in various candlelit corners.

Accessibility

Wittenberg makes a convenient day trip from Leipzig or Berlin. It lies halfway between the two. Train routes connect Lutherstadt to both.

In the summer cruise ships drop passengers in Wittenberg during a leisurely sail along the Elbe River.

If traveling by car Wittenberg lies about 17 km to the east of the A9 off B187.

So whether arriving by train, boat, or car, add the historic town of Wittenberg into the list of sights to see in Germany.

The copyright of the article German Cities Worth Touring - Wittenberg in W Europe Travel is owned by Josanna Simpson. Permission to republish German Cities Worth Touring - Wittenberg in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.

Castle Street in Wittenberg	Bell Tower in the church of Luther's 95 Theses	Potatoes at the Kartoffelhaus in Wittenberg
Luther's bust at the Luther House Museum