You can escape from the hubbub of modern city life by exploring the atmospheric streets of the Nikolaiviertel, the medieval core in what was once the old East Berlin.

The Nikolaiviertel is a peaceful enclave taking you back to the heart of historic Berlin. It’s a medieval village of cobblestone streets, picturesque lamps, historic houses, and the city’s oldest pub. It also has the church from which, in 1539, news of the Reformation was spread to the inhabitants of the town.

World War Two

Like much of Berlin, the Nikolaiviertel was badly damaged during World War II, but the reconstruction work has made it an oasis of calm with old buildings, narrow lanes, and the quiet gurgling of the River Spree.

Nikolaikirche

The Nikolaikirche, whose spires dominate the skyline, is the area’s heart. Sections of the church, which is now a museum, date from the 13th century. The models that show the development from small villages clustered around the riverbanks to a prosperous Middle Ages town are especially interesting.

Authentic Middle Age Buildings

To get an idea of what the area was like during the Middle Ages, wander down Probstrasse, where the most authentic buildings are Numbers 12, 23 and 30.

Famous People

You’ll be following in the footsteps of many famous people of the past, including alchemist Johann Böttger who learnt his trade here in 1696, attempting to turn base metals into gold. Casanova stayed here in July 1764. Goethe, the famous writer, passed by in 1778; Humboldt, the founder of the famous university, stayed in Knoblauchhaus.

On the banks of the river Spree, you can admire the statue of St. George battling the dragon.

Oldest Pub

The most frequented house in the area is Zum Nussbaum, the oldest pub in Berlin. Even if it is a copy of the original 16th century building that was destroyed during the war, it’s got a nice atmosphere. It’s a good place to stop for a glass of wine, or a Berliner Weisse, a light refreshing beer. In the summer, get an outside table, where you can enjoy both the fresh air and indulge in the popular pastime of people watching. In the tiny garden, a walnut tree, the pub’s namesake, stands.

Cuisine

If you’d like a meal, head to the Gerichtslaube, which is a replica of one of Berlin’s medieval courthouses, now a restaurant. Here you can try some of the city’s specialities, such as kassler rippen (smoked and pickled pork), Eisbein (pig’s trotters - usually a winter dish), or kartoffelpuffer (potato pancake). For dessert you can opt for rote Grütze - soft berries in a sago jelly served with hot or cold vanilla sauce.

Ephraim Palais

Ephraim Palais once belonged to the jeweller and financier who minted the coins of Frederick the Great. The building was dismantled in 1933 to allow for the widening of a road, and parts of the Rococo facade were stored in the west. They weren’t returned to the then East Berlin until 1983. Now the palace stands, in full splendour and with its entire facade, about 12 metres from its Middle Ages site.

Historic Wine Cellar

There’s also Knoblauch Haus, dating from 1759. The Knoblauch family founded a Berlin brewery. The basement and ground floor recreate a Historischen Weinstuben of the 19th century.

Medieval Crafts Museum

The Handwerksmuseum at Mühlendamm 5 demonstrates how craftsmen lived, worked and practised their arts in medieval Berlin. It has recreated workshops of some of the crafts, including watchmakers, bakers, and goldsmiths. It’s a nice end to your explorations of the enclave before you hit the nightlife and high spots of the modern city.