For the beer fan, Munich is practically synonymous with the Oktoberfest. But for the real aficionado, Munich's other beer festival – the Starkbierfest - has the greater attraction.
Starkbier, 'strong beer', was traditionally brewed by monks during Lent. This heavy, very malty beer was said to be 'liquid food' for monks who were forbidden any meat or dairy products during the Lenten fast.
Several times more grain is used in the mash than for other beers, so the resulting drink is not just strong but also very thick in the mouth and full tasting. Most of the Bock and Doppelbock beers score between 7 and 7.5 percent alcohol by volume, against 5 percent for Munich's usual lagers and wheat beers.
The Starkbierfest's date varies from year to year with the date of Easter and conseqently the start of Lent. Unlike the Oktoberfest, it doesn't take place on a fairground, but in the cellars of the various brewers around Munich. It's very much the Bavarians' own celebration, not aimed at tourists – but the oompah music and the big mugs of beer are exactly the same as at its better known autumn relative.
The tapping of the first barrel takes place at the Paulanerkeller on the Nockherberg, outside the centre of the town. That celebration is open only to invited guests, but during the rest of the festival the cellar is open to the public for drinks and food. It's not the easiest place to find – you'll need to take the S bahn and then a tram – but it's worth it for the wonderful Salvator beer.
At EUR 7 (USD 10) a mug you might think this is expensive beer. Not really - – a 'mass' (the usual measure) is a whole litre of beer, and according to some Bavarians, who ought to know, you're drinking the equivalent of ten or eleven loaves of bread!
Other breweries also open their bierkellers for the festival. Lowenbrau, at Nymphenburgerstrasse 2, brews its Triumphator for the festival, and is easily reached from the Stiglmaier Platz U-bahn stop. Augustiner brews a beer called Maximator, and though the Bierkeller at Arnulfstrasse 52 charges an entrance fee, it's worth it – the beer is a marvellous nutty, malty flavour and the food is both good and filling. It's also the most central of the breweries, tucked away behind the main railway station.
One of the wonderful things about the Starkbierfest is the names of the beers, traditionally all following a similar pattern. There's Triumphator, Maximator, Salvator, Aviator (from the Airport brewery, of course), Celebrator, Operator, Praedikator, Jubilator. And odd man out, St Jakobus.
A warning though. If you're planning to attend the Starkbierfest it may be best to go earlier rather than later. Most breweries give their opening hours and dates for the festival – but Unionsbrau (brewer of Unimator, of course) says simply - "the festival is open till the Starkbier runs out".